I recently endured somewhat of a beat down when I went backpacking into the Deep Creek backcountry. And yet, I started my 7-day camping adventure at Newfound Gap Road, right at the upper Deep Creek trailhead, feeling completely refreshed, upbeat, and as strong as an ox.
But soon, my troubles began. Because there were some downed trees. Big ones. And a few deep feeder creeks to cross. Moreover, since I’d hired a shuttle driver, and was in a hurry to get going. I forgot to REALLY TIGHTEN the LACES of my hiking shoes. So, by the time I got to my lovely campsite, some 7 miles downstream, nestled amidst the high spruces. Well, my feet were bruised, battered, and blistered. And yes, that can happen, sometimes, when you’re carrying 6-7 days of food, plus your base weight.
Thoroughly exhausted, I could go no further.
So, no, it was NOT time to fish. Not at all. Rather it was time to set up camp. Then, to try to recover by using my cork ball to massage my stiff hips, calves, and quads… And afterwards, to fall asleep under the stars in the night sky, visible through the wide open spaces between the towering spruce canopy. So talk about a peaceful setting to dream the night away.
Then to awaken, still stiff, sore, and tired. To pink clouds, above. Like cotton candy, hovering, melting into a clear blue sky. So this was why I came here. And for the fly fishing… But once I got on the creek later that morning. And tried a few holes. No, I didn’t catch a thing. Nothing. Nada.
Still, I could save the day by eating a tasty lunch and downing a cold drink on a pleasant moss covered bank, while I watched the mystical currents of Deep Creek ebb past me. Yet, I was still quite low on energy after yesterday’s beat down. And my feet were still sore and aching.
So I was just about to give up. Call it a day.
But then, I remembered that there was a very nice hole just a little ways up the trail. So, I hiked there. And tried that hole. With a weighted pheasant tail nymph. Which was designed to sink to the bottom of a hole, where a large trout might lie. So I tried casting and drifting that fly exactly 3 times. Three times was all it took to change my day.
Cause she struck at the end of my third drift.
Solid and unmoving. My hook seemed stuck. Jerking my rod upwards, I tried to free the hook from the snag. But, the end of my line was suddenly moving and thrashing in the fast currents towards the tail of the pool. And going on a fast run downstream.
Lowering my rod tip, I attempted to walk her back up. No way I could chase her downstream. In fact, there was a huge logjam in the very next pool. But she cooperated by following my lead, running back upstream and deep right in front of me. Disappearing into the shadows and depths of the pool.
And it just seemed like she was hung up on something for a while. While I just held on tight. Tugging, gently. Easing her upward. Got her close to me twice. Right on the surface. And finally, on the third try, I dragged her onto the sandy shore right behind me. And it was a good thing that I did, because my fly came right out of her mouth at that very moment.
Still, there she was, lying on dry land. So I scooped her up in my hand. Took some pictures of the 17-inch brown trout. All dark, silver, heaving, and glistening. Not at all like the buttery, golden, muscular brown trout, I’d once landed near here, last summer.
Still, a prize, a beauty, no doubt, in her own right.
So now I was on cloud 9, and feeling no more pain, fatigue, as I eased her back into the water.
Where she hovered in the brisk current for a bit. Until she quickly swam off under a submerged boulder. And was gone for now…
And soon, I found myself wading upstream to another hole, where I landed yet another very nice brown trout. A 13-14 inch wild brown trout. At that.
And incredibly, in the very next hole upstream. I hooked and landed yet another nice brown trout. A 12-inch brown, which thrashed around so erratically in my palm that I couldn’t hold on. So it flopped back into the water and was gone. But what a day for fly fishing!
Sadly, though, for the rest of my fly fishing adventure this would be, by far, the best day of fishing. Although I did briefly hook a 5-pound brown trout in the tail of another very deep hole situated between 2 campsites on Deep Creek. And that was on day 5 of my trip.
But so what if fly fishing slowed down some, and I lost a huge trout? So what of it?
Because I was waking up to pink clouds in the mornings. And around 10 AM everyday, the rising sun would bathe the stream, trees, and mountainsides in a gorgeous golden heavenly light. Then, at the end of each day, the clouds would glow orange in the blue sky above the lush green mountainside.
And I was falling asleep to the stars. Under the pines and spruces. While I waded during the day through cold clear mountain waters. And sometimes, I’d see the streak of shooting stars.
Also, I rigged up my ultralight hammock, so I’d have an immaculate view of Deep Creek splashing over a golden cascade. And, in my hammock, I’d relax after dinner until the sun began to fade. And the air got just a bit nippy.
Then, I’d retire to my tent. Lying down on top of my unbelievably comfortable Exped down pillow and Exped sleeping pad, while the sound of the rushing, splashing stream drowned out all else. So that I’d just exist within the sound of flowing water. Dreaming of a cool blizzard, blowing snow. And fresh air rushing all over me.
Which was a reality and dream all at the same time.
And the only thing that stunk about the whole trip was my achy feet. Blistered and bruised. But thank God, I’d brought my neoprene wet wading socks. Cause, I’d just ice my feet down everyday in the cold pristine mountain stream, while I waded and fly fished Deep Creek. Never even feeling the sting, the deep pain, or the dull ache of those bruises and blisters.
But one more thing that was not so good was the amount of gnats and bugs.
Man, I tell you. They were everywhere. Totally in my face. Galore! But if you kept wading and fly fishing, well, they weren’t so bad. Moreover, if you laid down low in your relaxing ultralight hammock with the stellar view of the spirited cascade along Deep Creek. Well then, those gnats and bugs would mostly leave you alone.
And, did I mention the smell of those spruces and pines? Yeah well, that relaxing, calming scent was everywhere in my camp. All around me. A part of the whole Deep Creek backcountry experience, which is a true wilderness in the way I’m about to show you…
So, on the last night that I camped in there… Day 6 of my trip. I will tell you that a young couple joined me at this particular backcountry campsite. That said, we were separated by some thick brush and trees. And then, sometime, around 2:00 AM, I awoke to their lights flashing all around for a long time. And who takes that long to use the bathroom at night, I thought?
Turns out, in the morning, they had a tale to tell.
Of a black bear, which descended down the mountainside and circled their tent. Then, incredibly, soft pawed the side of their tent. Even contacting the man inside! But, the couple remained silent, stunned. Petrified.
He wanted to emerge. To face the bear head on.
But, his girlfriend begged him in whispers to stay inside. Still, they did not make a loud sound. So I heard nothing in my tent. But I saw bright lights when they turned their flashlight on. And unzipped their tent flap. Just a bit. So that the guy could snake a hand out with a can of bear spray in it.
Then, he gave that black bear a serious blast of his bear spray.
But the back spray caught them, too. And stung their eyes. And they were coughing and wheezing inside their tent that night for the next few hours.
In the morning, they told me all of this with red bloodshot eyes. Looking palpably shaken, and well, as though they didn’t get a wink of sleep that night. And, they also told me that this was their very first camping trip, which is really amazing. Given the fact, that I’ve gone on a LOAD of camping trips in my life, but never had a bear paw me inside my tent.
That said, I’ve had a black bear stalking and circling my camp in Idaho. I’ve had a black bear charge me when I was fly fishing in Virginia. Got right up in my face. I’ve had a black bear threaten me on the trail from ten feet away on Buffalo Mountain in East Tennessee. But I’d say it’s somewhat usual to be harassed by a black bear at any particular campsite.
Although, I did get grunted at by a bear when I was camping on the Little River in GSMNP one night, just last Fall. And it scared the heck out of me. Just for a second, I say. Until I felt my inner Rambo rising up from deep inside of me. Grabbing my headlamp, knife, and bear spray, I began hollering.
Go away, brother bear! Or I’ll give you a fight you won’t believe! Don’t push me. God will lead me to victory!
But when I emerged from my tent, all ready to fight. Searching the area with my headlamp, frantically, I only discovered an empty campsite and one fresh bear print in the damp soil along the edge of the clearing.
So I guess that’s the protocol, if you have a bear visiting your campsite. Yell, holler, scream. Act tough as nails. Go away, brother bear! Get your headlamp, knife, and bear spray. If you’ve got the space, emerge. Beam the bear in the eyes. Now he’s blind. Yell and scream. Go away, brother bear! If he doesn’t flee. Fire away. And he’ll leave. Cause bear spray burns and stings, like acid.
That said, there’s been 2 black bear fatalities in GSMNP. Still, the likelihood of being attacked, or mauled, by a black bear is insanely low. Just ask any modern woman, who’d prefer one…
Still, I wouldn’t run from one. No. Never. Stand your ground. Make yourself look BIG. ACT tough. Screaming and hollering.
And don’t forget to pack your bear spray.
Why? Cause you never know. But what I do know is that I sleep a lot better when it’s next to me. And I feel more comfortable and safe when I’m hiking and wade fishing when it’s holstered on my hip. Because, I go into the Deep Creek backcountry, and other wilderness streams, on my own. So I’m deliberate and cautious when I’m hiking and wading around, descending into the creeks, so that I don’t fall and hurt myself.
Cause that’s probably the biggest risk when you’re hiking, backpacking, fly fishing, or camping. An accidental fall. Or, an encounter with another human being, harboring bad intentions. Or even, a vehicular accident on the way to your wilderness destination. So drive aware and safe.
But bears do approach tents during the day and night, sometimes. And they grunt at, and even paw the tents, on occasion. So, it’s best to come prepared…
Anyway, the hike into the Deep Creek backcountry; and, out of it again, to and from the lower trailhead, is a real bear. See, how I did that? Bear.
Moreover, the hike into the Deep Creek backcountry from the upper trailhead can be a real beat down, too. Maybe even worse than the hike in from the lower trailhead. No, I kid you not.
So there’s NO easy way into the Deep Creek backcountry.
But that’s what makes the Deep Creek backcountry such a special wilderness area in GSMNP not overrun by too many fishermen, hikers, and backpackers. Cause who wants to tackle such a challenging hike just for the slim chance of catching a few nice brown trout? Moreover, who’s gonna spend the night in the heart of the Deep Creek backcountry, knowing that there might be a big black bear somewhere out there, which just might come right into your campsite late at night. Especially, if you fear that. And don’t make peace with it beforehand. But hey, that’s just a small part of what makes the Deep Creek backcountry a true wilderness experience.
And, as for that young couple on their very first camping trip, whether they know it, or not. They were lucky to experience a black bear actually reaching out to paw them at night through their tent. Truly, that’s a mind-blowing, terrifying, and amazing experience! One that will never be forgotten by them.
Furthermore, I have no doubt now that that black bear is now their kindred spirit animal for all time. I just hope that they will realize this, too, in time. And dare to venture deep into the Deep Creek backcountry, once again. The same amazing wilderness shared by the deer, fox, bobcat, brown trout, racoon, rabbit, possum, coyote, cougar, and yes, even the mysterious and mystical black bear.
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Gary Alan
After a long career in the publishing industry, Gary Alan left his corporate job to pursue his next adventures in life as a blogger, writer, investor, fly fisherman, hiker, and traveler. He is the author of the adventure fiction book, 'Big Thunder-Hearted River'.